Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Rock Climbing at Chapada Diamantina, a concise description of the points at Lençóis, BA, Brazil.

Bruno Melo na Sai de cima do Muro
André Valladão na clássica Arame Liso

  Rock climbing at Chapada Diamantina has developed a lot in the last years. Which is no surprise given the amount and the quality of its rock. 

To date most climbing routes are concentrated at the cities of Lençóis and Igatú, in both places sport routes and boulders predominate and the potential for new stuff is almost endless. In this post I wrote only about Lençóis. Keep in touch for incoming info about climbing at Igatú.

At Lençóis, at only 30 minutes walking from downtown, in the Muritiba Municipal Park, are the majority of climbing routes. This classic climbing sector is called “Primavera” for there is a so called waterfall near the routes, which in summer is definitely perfect for relaxing before trying a climb. In this sector there are some sub-sectors, like: the Corridor, the Diamond, Pink and the Brain, the Cave sector and the Pink Quartzite. Even very close to the waterfall there are a few routes. The rock is conglomerate and quartzite and in some places there is a mix of the two rock types.

Another rock climbing sector which is in full development is called Paradise. Less frequented, it is a bit far away from Lençóis, comparing to the Primavera sector. But anyway you can reach it after an hour walking. This sector has excellent routes and great potential to the opening of even more. Recently the RJ climber Antônio Paulo de Faria, with some local climbers, added some very good routes to this amazing place. More is to come. Definitely is worth a visit.

At both sectors the routes are equipped with expansion bolts and “P” bolts, at the anchors there are, in most routes, two fixed protections to make the cleaning and rappelling safer. All you need to enjoy these amazing routes are runners, a rope and your personal equipment. Don´t forget to bring a canvas or the like to protect your rope from dust and sand. With a 50 meter rope it is possible to climb two routes if they are close. There are routes from third to tenth grade, Brazilian rating system, but most routs are around our 6 and 7’s.

So far there is no comprehensive guidebook to our climbing sectors and routes, though you can find some info scattered through the net. As soon as I get some news about a guidebook I’ll put in the blog.

The access to the Primavera sector is very easy. You can use the same trail system of popular hikings like the Serrano Pools, Halley Pool, Primavera Waterfall and the Mirador to Lençóis. To arrive to the Paradise sector is a little bit complicated and I advise you to ask directions for local climbers.

For those who like bouldering Lençóis has also lots of options. Just around the Serrano Pools there are several places where you can find excellent bouldering. The local climbers are opening new lines almost every week and they are for sure a good source of information and good partners for those who want to climb around.
It’s possible to find amazing photos of Chapada Diamantina at the blog:

which belongs to Alain Denis, a rock and ice climber and an outstanding photographer from Canada.

So remember, if you like to rock climbing and is planning to visit Chapada Diamantina, Brazil, don’t forget at least your personal equipment. The climbers at Lençóis are very friendly and you won’t be without partners.

Diego "Carriola" na Vai quem Quer
O autor na Tio Valla

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